This South Carolina Beach Town Is a Local Favorite — and It’s Just Outside Charleston

When I moved to Charleston several years ago, finding a favorite beach was a top priority, especially as the summer heat began to set in. While I had grown up vacationing on nearby Kiawah Island, I knew I’d need a closer coastal escape, one with a decidedly younger, more laid-back atmosphere. This desire sparked my first trip out to Folly Beach — one of Charleston’s main beaches — with a lounge chair, sunscreen, and a couple of page-turning books in hand. Over the next couple of years, Folly became my go-to spot when friends were visiting from out of town. It’s a destination with everything you need for an amazing beach weekend, including shopping, seafood restaurants, relaxed bars, and the wide, sandy coastline South Carolina is famous for. 

Folly Beach is technically a city on Folly Island, although its personality and attributes are more akin to your classic Southern beach town. “Folly is a funky, hippie, surfy, small barrier island that has a warm vibe and beautiful views,” Jenny Brown, founder and owner of Shaka Surf School, tells Travel + Leisure. It may be home to a variety of tourist attractions and shops, but there’s always a steady beat of originality that calls to both travelers and locals alike. “Folly Beach has traditionally been a local gem, welcoming people from all walks of life to experience the true essence of South Carolina and the genuine spirit of Charleston,” says Stephanie Dasher, the executive director of Warrior Surf Foundation. “This authenticity gives Folly Beach its eclectic charm, setting it apart as a beach with character and a story to tell.”

MEET THE EXPERT

Jenny Brown is the founder and owner of Shaka Surf School in Folly Beach.

Stephanie Dasher is the executive director of Warrior Surf Foundation, a nonprofit that provides surf therapy to veterans.

Ashby Gale is the owner and lead paleontologist of Charleston Fossil Adventures.

Read on to discover where to stay, what to do, and when to visit Folly Beach, according to local experts. 

TOP 5 CAN’T MISS

• Skip the hotels and rent a cozy bungalow just steps from the beach.  
• Take a surf lesson with one of Folly Beach’s locally-owned, top-rated surf schools.
• Grab a table at Chico Feo after a day spent out in the sun. 
• Stop by Bert’s Market for sandwiches, drinks, or any essentials you forgot to grab on your way in. 
• Visit in the off-season, from October to March, to avoid larger crowds and heavy traffic. 

Where to Stay

Instead of a hotel, Brown recommends finding “a cute B&B or renting a tiny, original 1950s house.” There are several of these charming homes on Folly — and we rounded up a few of the best ones below. 

Rustic 1940s Beach Bungalow

With room for up to five guests, this charming home is located within walking distance of the beach as well as most of the restaurants and bars on Folly. It’s outfitted with all of the modern amenities — including a washer and dryer — and the front deck comes with Adirondack chairs and twinkling bistro lights, making it the perfect place to lounge the night away. 

Blackbeard’s Folly

Blackbeard’s Folly is a recently renovated beach home composed of three separate apartments, but they can all be booked for an entire group if desired (sleeping 24 guests in total). While each apartment has a different layout, they share a picture-perfect patio and beachy bar. The best part? The patio features three outdoor showers, where you can wash any sand off before coming inside. 

The Smile

A converted dental office — hence the name — The Smile is a two-bedroom, two-bathroom cottage located just half a block from Center Street. There’s plenty of room to spread out, with a kitchen, living area, and large front porch at your disposal. One recent traveler described it as “clean, close to everything, and filled with character.”

Best Things to Do

Spend a day on the beach. 

In the words of Brown, “Slow down and relax… you’re on Folly.” This is especially pertinent advice for a beach day. Folly Beach boasts six miles of wide beaches, and this map highlights beach access points (as well as ones that are ADA accessible), places to park, and public restrooms. If you require beach chairs or umbrellas during your visit, you can either buy them from a local shop or rent them from Folly Beach Chair Company. No matter your game plan for the day, be sure to brush up on what you’re allowed — and not allowed (glass containers, plastic bags) — to bring on the beach.

Take a surf lesson.

For Dasher, taking a surf lesson is a “must-try activity” for anyone “seeking memorable experiences on Folly Beach.” She recommends Isla Surf School, but you can also check out Carolina Salt Surf Lessons or Shaka Surf School to learn (or improve) your surfing technique and etiquette.

Get a good look at Morris Island Lighthouse. 

The tallest lighthouse in South Carolina may only be accessible by boat, but you can get a good view of it from Folly Beach. As a way to get your steps in and explore more of the island, Ashby Gale, owner and lead paleontologist of Charleston Fossil Adventures, suggests walking to “the ‘east end’ of the island to watch the sun (or moon) rise next to the Morris Island Lighthouse.” To get even closer, you can embark on the Morris Island Lighthouse Tour, which provides guests with a better understanding of coastal wildlife, ecology, and the history of the lighthouse.   

Hunt for shark teeth and fossils.

Folly Beach is one of the best places around Charleston to look for shark teeth, an activity that can be fun for the whole family. It’s also one that requires patience and a sharp eye, so it’s often better to go with a guide. “If you don’t find shark teeth when you visit, please consider booking an adventure with one of Charleston Fossil Adventures’ paleontologists to guarantee you go home with pockets full of fossils,” says Gale. “We have adventures that leave by boat directly from Folly and other boat locations within a 30-minute drive.”

Best Restaurants

Jack of Cups Saloon

Charleston’s impressive culinary scene extends out to Folly Beach, where you’ll find the Jack of Cups Saloon. “Jack of Cups has so many options and [a] changing menu,” says Brown, who also notes there’s a “fun porch out back.” While the menu itself is evolving, the restaurant describes its offerings as “unexpected dishes, often inspired by Asian and Indian flavors.”

Chico Feo

Following a long day in the sun, there’s nowhere better than Chico Feo to grab a cold drink and some tacos. Gale gives it points for its “small, intimate setting, simple yet tasty menu, and off-the-beaten-path [location].” The casual outdoor picnic tables are also ideal for gathering with a group of friends to listen to live music, poetry readings, or even comedy routines, which are often part of the Chico Feo Soapbox Nights held every Monday. 

Alfredo’s On Folly

While Italian food might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you envision a meal at the beach, Alfredo’s On Folly may prove you wrong. “Alfredo’s On Folly [has] homemade pasta, epic sauces, and a great hometown vibe,” says Brown. After a full day of swimming, biking, or surfing, you’ll be more than ready for a chicken parm panini or spaghetti topped with beef ragu. 

Lost Dog Cafe

For a pre-beach-day breakfast, Gale recommends Lost Dog Cafe. With a menu that consists of hearty favorites like biscuits and sausage gravy, breakfast burritos, French toast, pancakes, and huevos rancheros, the restaurant basically guarantees you won’t leave hungry. As a bonus,  you’re more than welcome to bring your dog along for the experience. 

Bert’s Market

Browsing Bert’s Market, a destination Dasher describes as a “community convenience store that never sleeps,” is a Folly Beach experience every visitor needs to have at least once. Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, Bert’s is technically the only grocery store on the island, but it’s a lot more than that. Along with your typical groceries, you’ll also find household goods, wine, fishing supplies, a hot food bar, and a full-service deli. “Bert’s is renowned for its friendly service and the opportunity to savor a signature Turkey Crunch wrap — don’t forget the turkey bacon,” says Dasher. 

Beach and Souvenir Shops

Center Street, the area’s main hub, is lined with a variety of kitschy shops you can pop into for beach towels, tank tops, and all manner of Folly Beach memorabilia. As you stroll down the street, keep an eye out for Mr. John’s Beach Store, Beachwear & Gifts, Islander, and Palms. You can also turn onto East Avenue, where you’ll find Folly Sol, a local artisan boutique and gallery.

Surf Shops

Folly Beach is a true surf town — and there are a couple of stores to frequent if you’re looking to improve your skills on a board. McKevlin’s Surf Shop and Ocean Surf Shop are both located on Center Street, and each offers bodyboard and surfboard rentals — the latter has paddle boards, too — as well as expert advice on wave conditions and what you need to know before getting out in the Folly surf.  

Best Time to Visit

Summer is, unsurprisingly, one of the most popular times to visit Folly Beach — as it’s the best time of the year for swimming in the ocean. The off-season months, however, contain their own brand of magic. “Spring and fall are great… with smaller crowds,” says Brown. And, according to Gale, if you visit from October through March, you may have a better chance of finding a unique souvenir to take home with you. “Nor’easters and high winds often pull more sand off our beaches, uncovering more fossil material than we see during the summer months,” he explains. 

How to Get There

Charleston International Airport (CHS) is about 20 miles from Folly Beach, but the exact time it takes to arrive on the island heavily depends on traffic. “There is only one road on and off the island,” says Gale, referring to Folly Road, the major thoroughfare you’ll take through James Island, which turns into Folly Beach Road and eventually into Center Street. “Plan your arrival carefully, as holidays and weekends frequently see traffic gridlocked 3 miles from the beach.”

How to Get Around

While you can drive to and around Folly Beach, parking can sometimes be difficult, particularly on the weekends. If you’re staying overnight, Dasher recommends biking and walking. “These unhurried methods allow visitors to be fully present, savoring the moment and absorbing the vibrant atmosphere while reducing the likelihood of missing noteworthy details and encounters,” she says. Visitors can also opt to rent a golf cart from Folly Beach Golf Carts; just make sure to understand the rules and regulations before driving one around the island. 

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